On a really wet day we drove out from Shillong to Mawsynram, a village in the Khasi Hills of Meghalaya. The village is known as the rainiest place in the world. We couldn’t see a thing because of the rain.
On the drive back The Family remembered a rock concert which was supposed to be held in a large ground on the way. There was no way we could miss it: the highway was jammed with cars going to the concert. Eventually we made our way there. The music was pretty much what local rock bands produce: okay most of the time, dipping below now and then, and soaring sometimes. The rock concert attracts a lot of young locals, and the major politicians. Between songs there were occasional speeches in Khasi.
Since we didn’t know the language, we felt free to walk over to the food and drinks stalls. It was late and they had run out of dohneiiong: pork cooked with sesame seeds. We got some jadoh: the basic rice and meat, with some wonderful soya chutney. Raju, our driver, told us that the rock concert was held every year, and was started not too long back by the local member of the Parliament. That explained the speeches.
We walked back to listen to the music again. We’d spent a long time on the road, and the traffic had not improved. Listening to the music was a better option than spending time in the traffic, we thought. Raju was sure that staying longer would not help. He was right. We spent a long time stuck in traffic on the highway afterwards. But we had all eaten and enjoyed the vigourous music.
It takes a lot of vigor to listen to music in the rain! You are strong.
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… or nothing else to do?
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It’s amazing that as tourists, we do so many things. I know I would have done exactly the same thing in your place – gone for the concert. But being a local, I know I would have never done this. Being a non-tribal in Shillong, memories of past animosities between tribals and non-tribals still haunt us and I would have avoided going there unless accompanied by a tribal friend.
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I saw the edges of that tension when we made our trip five years ago. This time round I really wanted to go to a concert of this kind, but there was nothing going on. Holiday season, unfortunately.
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