I hadn’t thought I would love breakfasts in Turkey so hugely. Turkey lies at the boundary between Mediterranean and west Asian food zones. The breakfast was a wonderful mix. I have a tendency to overdo the meat, but I could not neglect the varieties of feta, the olives, tomatoes, and herbs, the moussaka, and the wide varieties of bread, and the yoghurt and olive oil. All this with uncounted cups of Çay. Breakfasts were the most self-indulgent parts of my days in Turkey.
The other big surprise were the wines of Cappadocia. We had read about the ancient tradition of wine-making in this region; even the underground cities of the early medieval age had winepresses. But the history of wine in this region is much older, can be extrapolated back to about 3000 BCE. Fatigue had driven this out of our minds on the first two nights, but on the third night The Family and I found a quiet open-air bar which we liked the looks of. Seeing a local Göreme red wine on the menu we ordered it out of curiosity and were blown away by the complex taste. I noted the names of the grapes: this one was a mixture of Öküzgözü and Boğazkere. Both these varieties of grapes are local and have a long history. I would meet Öküzgözü several times later. The barman was willing to give me a taste of the white Narince, which was also complex. We went with the red wine. I noted the name of the winery, Kocabağ, and asked for it every time we had wine elsewhere. It turns out that this is a highly regarded winery with a small production run, and is not so easy to get. We struck lucky on our first try of Cappadocia wine, but we were to discover much more later.