Commemorating Baghdad

The fourth courtyard of Topkapi palace was the playground of sultans. It was completely secluded from the world, and was perhaps first seen by others only when Topkapi fell out of use. It is littered (is that the right word?) with pavilions, towers, and kiosks built by different sultans from the 15th to the 19th centuries. The external appearances are very individual, but they share the same overall aesthetic. We spent a long time in the courtyard, looking at the Bosphorus, enjoying the stormy weather.

The structure that you see in the photos above is the Baghdad Kiosk, built in 1638 CE to commemorate the successful Baghdad campaign of Murad IV. During these centuries of decline of the Ottoman empire, Murad’s actions were perhaps among the most stabilizing influences for the empire. He fought the Safavid Empire in the 1630s, took control of Beghadad, but eventually confirmed the borders between the Ottoman and Safavid empires which had been agreed to in the 1555 Treaty of Amasya. The border of Iran, Iraq and Turkey even today follows part of this line of control.

We reached the interior of the pavilion by climbing up to the first floor terrace. This is a dazzling room. You can see the stained glass windows, the profusion of tiles, a fireplace with a beaten copper chimney, cupboards with doors inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Perhaps these views will tell you why it is impossible not to pay attention to detail when walking through this palace.

By I. J. Khanewala

I travel on work. When that gets too tiring then I relax by travelling for holidays. The holidays are pretty hectic, so I need to unwind by getting back home. But that means work.


  1. Only seeing these wonders through your eyes, I am blown away by the beauty of the structures, the graceful arches, the open spaces and above all the glorious tiling and windows. Simply stunning!


Leave a comment

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.