Late in the afternoon Mother of Niece Tatu asked The Family whether we needed to take anything with us on the trip we planned the next day. We’d had very little sleep the previous night, and I was forcing myself to stay awake until the night to adjust to the local time. Walking about would be the perfect way to keep awake, so I hoped that the question would result in a long expedition to which I could tag along.
A large part of the expedition was a visit to a Masai market. We were to find later that it is a Nairobi staple. There are several of these markets; a large one travels to a different mall every day. We spent part of the evening in the Diamond Plaza shopping complex where a smaller one sits a few days a week. The sight of a large variety of semi-precious stones ensured that I wouldn’t feel drowsy for a while. I hadn’t thought about it before, but I realized that the interesting and violent geology of the rift valley would be the source of a large variety of such stones.
I thought I would look for a kikoi or shuka. The kikoi is an extremely versatile tectangle of hand woven cloth which can be used as a lungi or a shawl, or folded over into a backpack or a turban. If you have seen photos of Masai wearing a red blanket, then you’ve seen a shuka. The Family instantly realized what a wonderful thing a kikoi could be, and supplanted me as the main customer.
I wandered off to look at the other handicrafts. These are all produced in little workshops at home, something that we would call a cottage industry in India. This very Gandhian model of economy now produces a huge variety of objects for the large tourist trade that Kenya has. I loved the polished wooden kitchenware with the beautiful zebra themed highlights. The prices that they go for are so small that you wonder about the cost of living in Kenya.
I’m sold on giraffes. When I looked at the painted wooden giraffes on display here I knew they could not be Rothschild’s giraffes, since they did not have the white socks characteristic of the species. Were they Masai giraffes then? I looked at the long ears and resolved to keep this feature in mind when I got to see them in the wild. Of course all these are stylized representations of the animals, so it was possible that certain features are exaggerated or removed.
The stalls were just a piece of cloth laid on the ground with the wares displayed on top of them, just as in street markets across Asia. The tourist trade is often drawn off into shops inside malls where exactly the same things are sold at a premium. We saw more tourists in those places than in these Masai markets. Economic theory fails to explain this. The result is that the primary producer, the people who make and sell these things at Masai markets, earns much less than the middleman who sells them in bigger shops at malls.
I wandered over to a vendor who was selling etched glass. The baobab and acacia trees, the lions, zebras, and buffaloes, were beautifully rendered. I asked the lady selling it whether she did it herself. “No,” she said, “this is done by a mzee.” MONT explained that mzee literally means an old man, but can be used as a respectful term for anyone. I promised the lady that I would be back later to buy something from her. This first expedition was just scouting the market. The Family had also decided to postpone the buying of kikoi. We moved on.
Wooh,biashara mzuri,naeza penda nije huko kununua,ubaya sijui Nairobi.
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Inasikitisha. Lakini nina hakika kuna masoko mengine
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Great photos and informative commentary. Nicely done.
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Thank you.
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Fascinating I.J., thanks for taking us along! We saw a similar ground based night market in Vietnam. I agree, one wonders how they get along based on the low prices. We ended up with some lovely hand-carved chopstick sets for about $3 each
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That’s the real question. I think that the people who make these beautiful things barely make a living. But then again, in an artists’ market in Berlin I’ve paid 10 Euros for a printed copy of a photo. That can’t get you much a living either.
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So beautifully displayed, colourful and vibrant. Did you finally buy some of that beautiful glass?
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Yes, we did. It is just so beautiful.
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It is
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🙂
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African markets are some of the best! Nice snaps.
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Thanks
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Thank you for the fabulous tour of the Masai Market, IJ! Beautiful on display. The glass is special, an art work.
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You’re welcome. Yes, the etched glass is really good.
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What a vibrant market! Everything looks so attractive.
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🙂
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you make me want to go there! Looks so curious, and I love the way they have presented the items. And the color? Wow. Thank you for the lesson too. Donna
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It’s worth going there. Kenya’s a lovely adventure.
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Wow (again).
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🙂
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