Flea and tea

My first unfiltered experience of China came one morning, ten years ago, when I walked through a flea market to reach a tea market. The flea market was the usual hotch potch of things, perfect for a quick look inside Chinese homes. Jade bracelets were laid out with bottles, jars, vases, and a very personable pig carved out of wood. If I had the weight allowance, I might have bought the pig right there.

In another aisle a middle-aged man sat with his collection of Mao memorabilia. The modern era of instant translation had not yet struck, and I hadn’t picked up even the smattering of Mandarin that I did later, so our communication was the age-old language of gestures and acting. You lose nuances in this language, but one meaning that came through was that some of the things he was selling was his own. There were a few medals with Mao’s face on it. A forty-odd years old man would have been in his early teens when Mao died, so I didn’t see how he could have won the medal. Maybe it was a family heirloom. Clearly there was a market for it even in the new China.

But most of the things put out for sale seemed to be more traditional. The small towns of India are full of little museums in forgotten mansions built by 19th century traders who found their riches in the trade with Shanghai and Guangzhou. Their display cases contained richer and more decorative versions of the things I saw. These “singing bowls” were quite a draw. Filled with water, you could set them vibrating with a clean high pitch when you drew your palms rapidly across their lip. I was shown how to do it.

I’d spent half an hour wandering around the market, and on the way out I stopped to take a photo of this celadon plate with a dragon winding around it. Later I would have the references to compare them with. Now I look at it and think it wasn’t a bad piece at all.

On to the tea market. I have no memory of what I’d imagined it to be, but it certainly wasn’t the sprawling maze of an indoor market that it actually was. There were more salespeople than customers at that time on a weekday morning. I suspect that in a market as big as that, it might be true at all times of every day. I peeked in through the open doors of every shop. Rows of crates, full of loose leaf tea, and shelves filled with packed teas and tea paraphernalia. That was the layout of each shop. And people sitting and picking through trays of tea leaves.

My favourite photo from that day is of this long narrow stall. Near the open door was a white cockatoo. The man sitting there paid us no attention as we walked by. Later, gawking done, I came back to this shop to buy tea. It was deserted, but as soon as I walked in through the door, the cockatoo squawked, and an young man poked his head out of the inner door. He had no English, but called someone on a phone. A trapdoor in the ceiling opened, and an English-speaking helper dropped into the shop. That was an eventful way to buy enough tea to last me a year.

By I. J. Khanewala

I travel on work. When that gets too tiring then I relax by travelling for holidays. The holidays are pretty hectic, so I need to unwind by getting back home. But that means work.

20 comments

  1. These are the kind of small adventure I enjoy. My daughter and I often visit flea markets when we see them. It’s hard to pass up some of the interesting things you find there. I like the story of the salesperson coming through the ceiling. A bit of ninja retail.

    Liked by 2 people

  2. I always enjoy wandering through markets when I travel, they are a great insight into a country and the perfect place for some candid photography. I’m not averse to a bit of shopping either and would have been tempted by a jade bracelet and maybe the little scent bottle lying next to them – both being very portable purchases, unlike the pig! Tea however I can live without – give me coffee every time!

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Love to visit the tea market, since I prefer loose tea:) The pig looks something I would have been interested too:) Do you know, the singing is heard on any china bowl with the right height? We used to do it just for fun:) By the way I changed my username to solve another blog issue from Jeshie2 to Emille, so you know – you know me:)

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I’m no expert, but I suppose almost any shape of the right size should sing. I think the idea that day was that the walls should be the right weight to be set singing with your hands. Hope you’ve settled into your new skin 🙂

      Like

  4. So much to see at the market but I would also have spent money at the tea market/shop, although I don’t really need any more tea and won’t for some time. That doesn’t stop me from getting more, though, and I got some excellent Chinese pu-erh not long ago.

    janet

    Liked by 1 person

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